Clothing

The popular image of the Highlander suggests someone striding over the heather clad only in a plaid and shirt, but the Scottish climate, as well as surviving evidence suggests this is patently nonsense. In fact nearly all wore at least one shirt (often two) of linen or wool, a neck cloth or stock, and a coat and waistcoat, again of wool. Often these would again be of tartan cloth, and be fitted with pewter, wooden or cloth buttons. As with anything, the better off the Highlander was, the better his clothing.

Many of the Highland gentry also had metal belt pistols or Dags, often in pairs, which were particular to Scotland.

The Bonnet was either of wool cloth, or more commonly knitted wool, and was the almost universal headgear of the Highlander. In earlier centuries they had been almost any colour, but by the time of the ‘45 were the mid - dark blue indigo dyed colour as here.

The Targe or shield was another feature of Highland warfare. This round shield was between 2 and 3 feet in diameter, made of wood, and covered with a thick layer of leather, often with padding underneath. It had two straps on the back, and often a shoulder strap so it could be slung as here. They were usually studded for decoration, and sometimes coloured as well, again to show the status of its owner. The Jacobites had large quantities made after Prestonpans when they proved to be very effective against the redcoat bayonets.

Most Highlanders wore some form of stockings inside their shoes, usually of tartan cloth. Footwear varied according to status; the gentry and officers wearing buckled shoes, middle ranks wearing leather laced shoes, or closed latchet style shoes, whilst the lower orders tended to wear simple leather moccasins called brogues, or even on occasion go barefoot. Lord George Murray also made sure that all the troops of the Jacobite army were equipped with two uniform items, a bread bag for the carrying of rations, and a white cockade to go in their hats. The latter was the only means of distinguishing men as Jacobites. Many men also carried on campaign a blanket, personal belongings and a canteen for carrying water.

The Belted Plaid or Philamhor is perhaps the most famous item of clothing associated with the Highlander. This was a length of tartan wool cloth, 54 inches wide and 6 yards long, which was folded and pleated for most of the length, before being belted around the waist. The lower half hangs down skirt like from the waist down to just above the knee, whilst the upper half could either be tucked into the belt to form pockets of cloth, pulled over the shoulders like a cloak, or as here pulled up and fastened by a circular plaid pin or annular to the shoulder. The plaid was an all purpose piece of clothing - doubling as a blanket and cloak. The lesser plaid or Philabeg, rather like a modern kilt was sometimes worn, and close fitting tartan trousers or Trews were worn by gentlemen or oficers to facilitate riding. It should be pointed out that ordinary 18th century breeches were also common amongst Highlanders of the time!

The basket hilted broadsword, often known popularly as the Claymore, is part of the popular image of the Highlander’s attire. In truth they were expensive and highly prized, and as such were relatively few in number. Evidence suggests that perhaps only one in five Highlanders in the ‘45 had one, so only the front rank gentlemen as here, or officers would have had one. Other Highlanders in the army did have swords going by contemporary descriptions, but these were poorer quality, either infantry swords brought in by the French, or swords of up to a century and more old which were pressed into service again during the desperate need for weapons by the Jacobites.

There are even accounts of scythe blades mounted on poles being carried.